The brides of today want everything modern, but there are some traditions that can't be left behind. Kundan and Polki jewellery is one such legacy that forever remains a classic.
The art of kundan and polki jewellery is hundreds of years old. The beautiful art comes from the Mughal era. Polki jewellery is uncut diamonds set in 22-karat gold with colourful meenakari on the back, which is mainly a specialisation of Bikaner in Rajasthan. Designer Savita of Safeera Jewels tells us, “ Kundan was the jewellery of Mughals and got popular since then. It is a method of gem setting, consisting of inserting gold foil between the stones and its mount. Precious stones, gems and beads are set in 22-karat pure gold. It is less expensive than polki as it has glass stones. Polki is a loo alike of kundan jewellery that uses uncut diamonds and precious and semi-precious stones. These stones have an open setting and are not covered with gold at the back. In polki jewellery, the uncut diamonds reflect more light and sparkle much more."
The classic touch
Polki and kundan jewellery is primarily a popular choice among brides. Since most weddings involve traditional rituals, a majority of brides opt for a dress cut in traditional lines. Suraj Popley, managing director, Popley Eternal, adds, “Kundan polki uncut diamonds are back in vogue in a big way and have been the traditional style of jewellery for the adornment of the bride for the main wedding ceremony. It is a style that can never go out of fashion." Designer Shouger Merchant Doshi feels, “It's an interesting piece of jewellery that can actually provide multiple purposes and look good even on Western clothing. It's a must-have in a bridal trousseau according to me because it's simple, classy and elegant and can add a nice touch to a simple outfit."
Trousseau
To make a statement, the bride should opt for golden embroideries and hues when teaming clothing with such jewellery. Doshi adds, “Anything gold based such as zardosi work blouses, pearl embroidery anarkalis or ribbonwork necklines with minimal bead embellishments are perfect when opting for kundan and polki jewellery,” whereas designer Amit Talwar of Adonize feels, “Indian couture dresses like anarkalis, lehengas, saris and gowns with kundan polki necklaces are making a statement nowadays. If the bride is wearing kundan jewellery with pearls, a gown featuring lots of beautiful tulle, with gold embroidery all-over, and pearls as embellishments, would make a pretty picture. If you plan on going with polki with emeralds, which is a popular traditional combination, then choose traditional embroideries and thread work rather than Swarovski crystals.”
Colours of joy
Kundan and Polki jewellery is such that it adds life to even a dull outfit. Doshi says, “You can wear anything from bright colours to earthy tones to pastels. Reds oranges and pinks however go best.” For a bridal trousseau, golden tones, maroon hues and pink shades are ideal. Emerald can make a great statement too. Talwar adds, “Pick vibrant and cheerful contrast colours like yellow, lime green, coral, baby pink, white, deep red, orange, black and golden with your jewellery when teaming ensembles.”
Modern trends
The traditional heavy chokers, maang tikkas, long jadau earrings and bangles have always been there and always will be. The modern bride however is opting for lighter kundan polki strands and tiny drop earrings. Prernaa Makhariaa from Tara Jewellers talks about the interchangeable line of kundan Jewellery that is quite versatile. She says, “Kundan neckpieces now come with a detachable jewellery piece that allows one to wear this set in different ways – necklace or maang tikka or a bracelet.” Chandresh Zaveri, director, Zaveri & Co, adds, “An amalgamation of pearls, rubies, diamonds and emeralds within the intricately designed kundan-polki work are coming back in vogue in a big way. The use of semi-precious stones that was used a lot in polki and kundan jewellery pieces are in trend these days. Heavy kundan sets are all-time favourites that add a royal look to the entire attire. Kundan jewellery has evolved in all terms like designs, patterns, styles and looks as per the customers' needs. They are new, innovative and come in a range of breathtaking designs that strike the right note with the avant-garde.”
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